Feature
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Jam Econo
Amid the sprawl of Southern California coastal enclaves, San Pedro is an oddity. Situated in the hook of its eponymous…
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Running Like God
Tyler Reid and I are sitting on the floor at LAX, waiting for a flight to somewhere hollow and remote.…
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Propelled on a Zephyr of Compressed Wind
Stored somewhere deep in the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of American History, along with other markers…
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Top Dead Center
Matahi Drollet is sitting out at the end of his dock, just past his family’s home, in the predawn darkness…
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The Beautiful Flower Will Wilt, the Beautiful Flower Will Die
1985. Ronald Reagan. “We Are the World.” AIDS. “Like a Virgin.” An exploding surf industry. A powder keg of a…
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On Style
You can’t define surf style—right? One surfer’s idea of equipoise is another’s vision of rank, look-at-me-being-casual peacocking. But maybe our…
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Black Sheep DNA
Shane Beschen beckons me up the driveway toward his home, past blooming tropical plants fecund with color. Trade winds tussle…
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Florsheims in the Sand
A Cautionary Tale When John Severson hired me as associate editor of Surfer magazine in the spring of 1968, he…
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Gin Joint
Just Say Go For how much attention riding massive surf gets, the big-wave community is actually a pretty small group…
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Fortune Favors the Bold
Introduction An aetiological tale is similar to a myth in that it tries, within the framework of a given culture,…
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From That First Wave
“Growing up,” says DJ Javier, “I didn’t think I deserved to be in the ocean. The way I saw it,…
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The Baltic Heart
“I think I’ve fucking had it, man. I think I’m done.” Freddie Meadows had spent a month and a half…