Feature
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Among Piers
Things were edging into late fall when the pier suddenly revealed its secret to me, a vision I keep chasing,…
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The Station Hand
The board was a bright-green Gunther Rohn, badly creased through its middle. No longer of any use to its owner,…
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Virtuoso
The call comes in a little after ten o’clock on a quiet night. It catches the Uber driver napping, pulled…
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The Intentional Line
When Geoff McFetridge was a student at CalArts in the 1990s, he passed through a set of double doors to…
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Song of the Sinosaurus
Spring 2010. Jim “Pilk” Pilkenton, a phone company repairman who moonlighted as a Huntington Beach surf instructor, Rodney Dangerfield impersonator,…
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Lonely in the Pacific
“Let thy foot be seldom in thy neighbor’s house, lest he be weary of thee and hate thee.” —Proverbs 25:17…
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Pulling Guard
During the 2014 Pipe Masters, a scene was repeated prior to each of Gabriel Medina’s heats that became emblematic. Peak…
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Time Out of Mind
Surf photographer Daniela Caram describes herself as pata de perro. The literal English—“foot of the dog”—does the phrase no favors.…
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Attention: Chiens Bizarres
I moved to Bidart, a small commune in the Côte des Basques, almost a decade ago to live and surf…
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The Captain
“Hey, Larmont! Where are you?” It’s winter on the North Shore in 1973, and Eddie Aikau is standing on the…
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Garrima Means Respect
Lungi Slabb doesn’t just ride the barrel. He lives in it. When a wave face bends or a lip chucks…
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Warning Shots
I’ll never forget the random message I received from Derek Hynd almost two decades ago regarding a specific area I’d…