Excerpt
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The Eye of the Hunter
Derek Dunfee’s evolution from big-wave surfer to big-wave photographer. From TSJ 29.3.
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Back From Hell
Unpacking our hard-wired fascination with surf trip disasters. Pulled from TSJ 29.2.
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Under The Great Wave
How a 200-year-old woodblock print still reverberates across the visual landscape, from the hyper-stylized cartooning of Japanese manga to the…
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Tranquila La Plaza
For a hundred or so local surfers, day-tripping Sinaloa is—tentatively—back on the table.
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“You Won’t Go”
Taking stock of the North Shore’s culture of youthful challenging that pushes the limits in heavy water. From TSJ 28.5.
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Regrets Only: Dirty West
Bad decisions and alphanumeric survival tactics at Cloudbreak.
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Party at the Roosevelt
Read a section from the new book “Cocaine + Surfing.”
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The Sikerei of the Islands
A traveling surfer finds shamans, tattooists, and cultural collisions deep in the Mentawai. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.
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Heidegger and the Paipo
Ancient versus modern design—and the “unreasonable demands” of technology.
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No Man’s Land
Into the predation cycle with white sharks and orcas in Gansbaai. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.
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Cutting Edges
Underwater projections from “the great cosmic Mentawai experiment.”
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Best I Ever Saw
Pat Rawson on Tom Carroll’s “forgotten” 10-point wave at Pipe.