Essay
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Leaving Las Vegas
I I felt I was really leaving town when I’d see the Primm casinos and its Ferris wheel up ahead…
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One Hundred Waves in Solitude
Twenty-one days of seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.
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One Hundred Waves in Solitude
Of any surfer, I envy Jeff Clark the most. Not because he discovered and pioneered one of the world’s burliest…
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The Gunman on the Hill
A light fog settled over the water like a smallpox-laced blanket as beach marshal Guy Coleman inched down the road…
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I Cut Off a Friend
It was a perfect wave on a perfect day. Santa Ana winds groomed a legitimate six-foot November groundswell. Faultless. “Not…
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African Echo
Twenty-eight years after Great Britain and the United States of America banned the slave trade (though the U.S. legislation would…
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The Impermanence of All Things
Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, and the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living.
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Counting Down
I’m new to the Pacific Northwest. These cold waters and lonely peaks feel a little unsettling. But my real problem…
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The Legible Element
Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who had some surprising intuitions about the “selves of waves.”
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The Legible Element
I’ve driven my wife and children crazy during beach walks because I feel the need to point out the waves.…
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On the Wild Edge in Alaska
“For a while it was scary. Then it was simply my surfing life.”