Essay
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Unfamiliar Ground
I only applied for jobs near the ocean, in places where I could surf. I took a position teaching at…
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The Endless High Tide
Sea level rise could drown your favorite wave. Is there a way to stop it?
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The Endless High Tide
Climate change isn’t a problem of our future—it’s here. According to a study in the Proceedings of the National Academy…
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Unity With Our Fellow Creatures
Spontaneous order and social dynamic theories in a crowded lineup.
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Unity With Our Fellow Creatures
Surf lineups everywhere are organized, even in their more chaotic moments, first and foremost by the rule of right-of-way. The…
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The Big Tradeoff
It’s dinnertime, just getting dark. We’re the only customers at the counter of a take-out shop on a back street…
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Supplemented
We want to relate to the experiences of our “star athletes,” but how do we relate to hitting a meth…
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Sunburned Mercury
It all started with dinner in Marin County, following a rare afternoon surf session at Ocean Beach. My hair was…
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Lucky You Surf
He wasn’t worried. It was just another trip, and if he blew all his coin, Greer knew it wouldn’t be…
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Meditations in a Surf Emergency
“You’d think I was a con. The way I set things up. I said nothing to no one. The things…
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Meditations in a Surf Emergency
It’s Monday and I shouldn’t be doing this. Leaving early. Lying my way out the door. Because a season lolled…
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Leaving Las Vegas
A United States surf citizen charts his path.