Essay
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Melt That Clock
The flat spell has been broken—thankfully, mercifully. And over a weekend, nonetheless. How rare is it that good surf lines…
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Either You Surf or You Fight
We were migrants from wave-starved states. Raised on competitive sports and capitalism, we went at surfing with the same get-out-there-and-fight…
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The Streak
In the summer of 2015, I made a decision. I was 24, sitting cross-legged on my old bed at my…
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Swimming to Molokai
Honolulu. Break of day. Again on this small beach. Ghost crabs, low tide, nearly spent waves. Ocean: living and breathing…
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Pixel by Pixel
Privacy is dead. Technology is king. Resistance is futile.
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Rights of Passage
When it comes to beach access, let’s just agree to disagree with ourselves.
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A Wave Trying to Find the Ocean
What I recall most vividly was my wife gripping my hand so tightly that I thought my fingers would break.…
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Bird Brains
At first i thought it was a dragonfly, somehow that far out in the Atlantic. It appeared in the air…
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Surf Film Is Dead
Long live surf film!
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Surf Film is Dead
At the last surf film screening I attended, I expected to be horrified and perhaps sickened by what I had…
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Wild Times
Our surf trips had begun to resemble anarchy. Not necessarily in any kind of malign way. They were just becoming…
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Screen of the Lotus Eaters
There’s something in surfing that feels awful utopian. It’s a real late- stage human activity. Many have tried to define…