Essay
-
The Houseboat Paradox
I’ve noticed a change in the surfboard design small talk that fills the lulls in lineups and beach parking lots…
-

Searching for Koa
I was chest-deep in the shorebreak with my feet on the bottom. Then suddenly the sand was gone. I’d bodysurfed,…
-

Sandías y Corridas de Toros
It was about 1960 when my friend Bob Beadle and I went on a surf trip for a few days…
-

Dancing About Architecture
I have written about surfing, for a living, for more than 35 years—a statement that appears absurd even to me.…
-

The Duke and the Craft
In 1990, 22 years after his death, a bronze statue of Duke Kahanamoku was unveiled at Waikiki Bay. On its…
-
Solid Waste
It was deep into winter the first time it stirred, at a secret spot buried inside the national park. A…
-
If a Wave Breaks in the Woods
My alarm snaps me out of sleep and I know I have to get down to the beach fast. The…
-

Sometimes I Wonder How I Keep From Going Under
On a recent morning at my beloved Malibu, I made way up the point, 7-foot semi-finless soft top underarm, 54…
-

Young Blood
Surfing has always been a youth-centric activity, rife with images and narratives hinting at immortality. It was the first “forever…
-

In Red Texas Dusk
They didn’t film The Last Picture Show in Fort Stockton, but they damn sure could have. One stoplight. One hotel,…
-

The End of the Lane
It’s midsummer in Cornwall, as far west as you can go in the United Kingdom before land trips into the…
-

Meet the Maker
Water tickles my ankles. Wind hammers against the windows. Bang. Bang. Bang. A break for breath before the hammer starts…