Essay
-
Time on the Glider
Inkling Another August afternoon in Cocoa Beach. Muggy, stifling. Peel-and-stick air. I’m up on the dune crossover, sweating, sniffing sargassum,…
-
Follow the Line
After a full day of surfing along the Western Cape with Duncan Savage, one of South Africa’s finest winemakers, we’re…
-

Beautiful Lives & Beautiful Deaths
I have lived the most beautiful lives and died the most beautiful deaths is a real thought I had the…
-
Lessons By Thrashing
I was two years into writing a novel set in a Walmart-like Supercenter, and it wasn’t going well. It was…
-
Religious None
My dad says he remembers the moment he gave up on me being a surfer. It was summer on Long…
-

Tuna Taper
On a midwinter morning in 1964, I watched George Greenough fight a tuna on a light rod right from the…
-
The Jungle Endures
In the beginning was G-Land—almost literally for the Javan people, who believed this jungled eastern tip of Java was the…
-
The Brakes Kill. The Gas Pedal Saves.
Ian Warner and I met in 1970, when my family moved next door to his house in Malibu Colony. Growing…
-

Noseride Obsessive
Every time I hear the 1962 version of the bossa nova song “Desafinado,” my mind summons a vision of a…
-

Surfing is a Joke
It’d been a nice January for surf and I was trying to maximize my time in the water before the…
-

Penultimates
Wavelengths Dave Rastovich: great Australian surfer, bright spirit, environmental activist. Very blue eyes, very white teeth. In the film Fishpeople:…
-

In Suspension
There’s a thorny paradox inherent to surfing, rarely mentioned in the words and images that mediate the sport-slash-art—at least not…