Archivist
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Will the World’s Greatest Surfer Please Lie Down?
He appeared from the mist of a raging Hawaiian swell, paddling in from the horizon at Sunset Beach. He’d thought…
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Navigating by Heart
A bunch of summers ago Barry McGrath, an Aussie friend of mine who has lived in the southwest of France…
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Infinite Games
“There’s never been a kneelo who wasn’t eccentric. Peter Crawford was a cross between Dennis the Menace and Mick Jagger,…
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A Beautiful Pandemonium
How Rick Griffin, South Bay surfer and artist, became the unlikely herald of the Psychedelic Revolution.
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Denevan’s Wake
A big swell can be a revelation, making the familiar strange again by expressing deepwater reefs and bringing rare birds…
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Board Stories
Piano Man Hanging on the beach at Makaha all day is akin to being on an East Cape beach in…
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Up a Lazy River with Bill Hamilton
“Aggressive, concentrated effort is the glue that holds and directs the instinct of the action. To go beyond the feelings…
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Inventions: Tom Morey
Simply put, Tom Morey was surfing’s first legitimate futurist. A short list of ideas he’s brought to the surfing world’s…