Episode 0
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Ep. 0
Friday, December 5, 1969: Humongous! Pat Curren led the way on his 11-foot gun at 10- to 12-foot Hammonds Reef. Luckily, the author survived the day much to Curren's chagrin.
Peter Sprague finds the harmony between pursuits—one selfish, one giving.
Kevin Wallis, Surfline's chief forecaster, wants you to score
Discussing influences, a near drowning at Todos, and “space noise” with the impulse-expressionist artist.
A red belt surf shooter’s most memorable surf trip was also his coldest.