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Going South
In ’50s California, there was no vocabulary for describing Phil Edwards’ performance on a wave. Bob Cooper recollects the impact of Phil-spotting during his formative years.
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Stranger in a Strange Sea
Decisive photographer Leigh Wiener coaxed poetry from surfing’s golden years.
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The Dream
"In the wake of the Tsunami, Kevin Lovett envisions a future for Lagundi Bay that entails a more sustainable approach to surfing tourism, with a ""community-owned project managing the area's natural assets"" as the new order of the surf colony."
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Undercurrents
“The Cheap Seat”, or the appropriately subtitled, “Boil Dodging at Cortes in a Grand Fashion”, defends the controversial actions of Captain Ron Hart in placing his craft, the 72’ Jet-propelled Catamaran seemingly dangerously close to the surfing playground at Cortes Bank in January 2004. The Field report, “Across Oz for Life”, describes Jimmy McMillan’s effort to raise funds to support the Balinese victims of Sari Club terrorist bombing. Academia’s, “Haolier Than Thou”, describes intriguing research by archeologist, Terry Jones and linguist, Kathryn Klar, as to the influence Polynesian mariners on the inhabitants of Chile’s and California’s coastal natives, as well as other Pacific Islanders. Library’s, “An Island Unto Itself”, is a review of a book by Caroline Unger on New Jersey’s Long Beach Island. The Screening Room gives a positive review of Sean Collins’ Surfline DVD Series’ “Lesson Accomplished: A Day of Surfology 101”
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Return to Robinson’s Trail
“Mikala Jones goes running right past us—board under his arm, sunscreen on his face. A photographer is setting up his 600mm. It’s fitting that we’re here in the Galapagos Islands, a place so important to Darwin’s formation of an evolutionary theory. Seals dart around in the lineup. Large lizards dominate the beach. Brutal sun beats down on jagged lava stone. It’s no Garden of Eden, but it’s not a bad place to originate a hypothesis of my own as I watch Mikala catch waves: Does a surfing life evolve or does it only contain the endless repetition of paddling back out?”
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