Buff & Momi: The Keaulanas of Makaha

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“Breaking Everything” with Artist Fritz Chesnut

A short film exploring the TSJ 33.2 profile subject’s destructive process.

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UnderCurrents

No fins, no swimming, pushing off directly into the tube in the shorebreak: try whomping to get your fill of wave time. Review of Taylor Steele's DVD "Innersection"; Serge Dedina's second book "Wild Sea"; Dave Kalama riffs on what it takes to really be prepared for those 20 footers; Kelly Slater's response to winning the 10th ASP World Title, Curtain Call in South Oz, Aussie photographers and their monikers. Surfing Around: Excerpts from Dr. David Stern's "Notes for a book on surfing, 1963"; Passings: Phillip "Flippy" Hoffman, Peter Van Dyke, and John Montgomery Lind; Off-The Lips with Nathan Fletcher and Jason Murray. Liner Notes the back story on the creation of the following features in this issue: "Chasing Down the Genius" by Paul Holmes, a profile of master craftsman Jim Phillips; "Odds & Ends" an article compiled by ex-Surfer editor Brad Barrett on 1960s San Diego surfing.   

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The Forbidden Island

How a chance encounter on Kaua‘i—and a quiet session at Hanalei—opened a window into the island of Ni‘ihau’s isolated and obscure surf culture.

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Beachcombing in the Very Deep South

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Miguel, Gisele, And The Architecture Of Sex

Brazilian surf culture imitates nothing and no one. Those who fix their Western Gaze on the country’s idiosyncratic and vibrant aspects have a tendency to chafe at its non-conformity rather than celebrating its distinctiveness. As writer Charlie Smith argues, resisting is useless: Brazil is the future of surfing.