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For Californian surfers—and, by extension, wave riders worldwide—the origin stories are all but memorized. Thanks to photographers like Don James, LeRoy Grannis, and Ron Stoner, our flashpoint moments are forever enshrined on Ilford photographic print paper. But in surfing’s “colonies,” such exhaustive archives are generally lacking. That’s what makes this issue’s Bob Weeks portfolio so fresh and appealing. A marvelous framer of compositions reminiscent of Ron Church, Weeks accumulated a file as deep as it is broad. The surfing looks fresh, the venues stoke-worthy, and the boards are worthy of study. This is a find by any measure.
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Can a growing surf scene help preserve Jeju Island’s dwindling centuries-old tradition of freediving?
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A short film featuring the TSJ 33.2 profile subject.

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Nathan Fletcher and Bruce Irons at bombing Cloudbreak, July 12, 2011. Book reviews: "Ghost Wave" by Chris Dixon on the discovery of Cortes Bank by David J. Morris; "Lost in the Ether" by Andrew Kidman documenting a wide range of shapers; the author has found an interesting substitute to replace the 6-hour drive to the coast to surf, which would be recon paddling down the Thames; attendees gather at Surfilm Festibal 9 to pay homage to the victims of the Thoku earthquake and tsunami in Japan; Curtain Call: Mike Kasic at a Yellowstone River secret spot. Surfing Around: ASR Limited presents its side to TSJ's 20#3 article on artificial surfing reefs by Paul Holmes; Passings: Gordon Duane, Dave Dedrick, Catherine Rosset; Off the Lip with Steve Pezman. Liner Notes: The back story on this issue's Rusty Long's "Barometric Pressure, "The Bicycle Tour," by Kimball Taylor, and "Gods in the Machine," Bali's motorcycle shop/surfboard factory/photo studio/café.
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Spontaneous order and social dynamic theories in a crowded lineup.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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