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Distant Messengers
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Father Serra at El Rincon
Stephen Cline translates an 18th century letter written by Junipero Serra. The letter was intended for Father Pedro Font and greatly mimics its period language. The letter describes an adventure traveling up the coast and passing an Indian village at Rincon, where he witnesses a skilled canoesman race the entire length of a sizable point peeler.
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A Night at the Cantina
Drugrunners, gunplay, and tropical brothels all play a role in the story behind the story of Pavones, Costa Rica.
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God And Ben
Start surfing late: say, in your twenties. Throw s-turns on 40-pound tankers. Teach yourself to shape. Invent the swallowtail. Invent the Sting. Build prototypes for Buttons and Bertlemann. Shape, carve, and coach relentlessly for 50 years. Boom! Overnight success. Ben Aipa—a man’s man to be sure—has been a powerful, albeit humble, presence in Hawaiian surfing since the days of the Makaha International Championships. Under sung in an almost criminal way for decades, it is our pleasure to drop this 8,000-word bomb.
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Surf Muzak
Thoughts on the nature of surf sonics.
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The Greener Grasses of Indonesia
Photographer John Respondek spends six weeks scouring the outer reaches.
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