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Ep. 25
On his Pipeline love affair, minimalism, finding stillness, the shortboard revolution, yoga, and his relationship to fame.

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We step back in time for a look at the early life of Sammy Lee, a legendary Hawaiian waterman. Written by a close friend, this article recounts Sammy's young surfing years with other Hawaiian all-stars and takes you into the present day life of Sammy Lee.

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Mark Anders takes an in depth look at Donavon Frankenreiter's life from growing up in Inland Mission Viejo to becoming one of the first sponsored "free surfers" and gaining rock star status. Donovan's natural ability and spontaneous approach to surfing has set him apart from the rest, often bridging three generations of surfing style into one wave.

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Stephanie Gilmore was an unlikely candidate, at first, for Andrew Kidman’s single-finned experiment. Putting a Dave Parmenter-shaped craft through the paces on a three-day run of Queensland point surf, Gilmore’s line-drawing, as per photographic evidence, proves inscrutable.

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Alan Van Gysen is one of Africa’s most respected surf photographers. In this photo portfolio, Alan takes us to the numerous bays and points and nooks and crannies of his home country of South Africa and beyond. Namibia, Mozambique, Morrocco, and even the illustrious Rapid 11 on the Zambezi River tamed by kayakers and river-goers, but also surfers under Van Gysen's initiative. Gysen's surf photos are strong, and South Africa is rich in surfing wilderness and adventure.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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