Episode 0
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Ep. 0
Remembering Art Brewer through his photo of John Kelly.
Tom Pohaku Stone stared at a Hawaiian pro surfing career at an early age. Running into trouble time after time helped him separate from his ego and find the traditional Hawaiian culture that founded all things surfing. Including the study of it as well as it's traditional practices like papa nalu (boards) and papa holua (wooden sleds that ridden down hillsides). Ultimately this saved his life.
A picture is worth a thousand words… or a thousand surfers, according to this double-depiction of small Waimea hosting what appears to be every surfing daredevil and his cousin vying for a piece of the big wave pie.
Surfer Bill Ogden's artwork is familiar to anyone who was exposed to 1960s California surf culture, as it has enjoyed an iconic presence in Surfer Magazine as used in various advertisements and movie posters.