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Typhoon hunting in Japan with Kohl Christensen

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Kelly Slater's surfboards have always been a little different. From the utlra-narrow glass slipper shortboard designs of his youth to now, wider and fuller (often quad fin) very short boards, Slater's one of the few pros who isn't afraid to tinker with design. Don't be too quick to suggest that Kelly can ride anything and hence his theories don't apply to you. Here, he explains what his vision of the modern surfboard looks like and what that means to you.

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Flippy Hoffman was part surfer, part pirate, part business-hawk, and all character. Along with his younger brother, Walter, his Hawaiian big-wave water time in the late 1940s and early 50s was just the tip of the iceberg in a life well lived. A recounting of his Channel Island diving escapades, Parisian textile-and-gem-hunting sorties, and high seas swashbuckling, told by those who knew him best.

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This tale of mother and son is unique on a variety of levels. Janet MacPherson was not only one of the original hot gal surfers at Malibu (coming along just after Aggie Bain and her flock), she has maintained a healthy pilot light of stoke since those sepia-tinged days. A deeply experienced Bajera, Janet knows more nooks and crannies in Mexico than any dozen sunburned Pacifico-swillers. That’s how she raised here boy, Sean. Sure, he might own and operate the hippest hotels in Manhattan—including the Jane and the Maritime—but it’s comforting to learn that he has the ballast of surf experience keeping his roots moist.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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