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Rolling hills, pastoral settings, empty lineups, and A-grade surf, apparently Tasmania has everything the wandering surfer with too much time on his hands could want. Only catch, it's at the bottom of the world, and the weather's not always the most pleasant. But whoever let that stop them?

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Bruce Raymond surfed for the first time at age 8 along the south beaches of Sydney, Australia. Dreaming of riding Rocky Point since age 11, Bruce bought a ticket to Hawaii in 1975 and pursued pro surfing. In 1979, he returned to Australia to become managing director of Quiksilver Garments. Known for his creative genius and big-wave charging, Raymond loves the thrill of discovering new things.

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“Russ was only 12 when he went on his first swell-chase to Torquay with his old man. After packing the van, they drove 10 hours to Bells to greet 12 feet of Antarctic corduroy wrapping into the Bowl. Russ had a fresh quiver of orange boards, the idea being that if he got into trouble, at least his dad would be able to find him. He’ll never forget what they saw when they arrived that day.”

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Artist Dan McCarthy and the lightness of process.

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A young shooter from Australia’s Victorian Coast in the time of Instagram.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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