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In its early 70s glory days, Australia’s Tracks magazine was the loosest kid on the block, epitomizing the era’s sex, drugs, and rock’n’roll anti-ethos. Editor and emeritus surf journo Phil Jarratt tells all in his recent memoir, Life of Brine—and in this excerpt from the same.

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It’s a crude sport—packing tubes. Take one thumping beachbreak. Add a little performance-enhancing squirt from some modern machinery. The methods are as lawless as the thrill-seekers. Christian Beamish reports on the stretch of black sand in Mainland Mexico where it all goes down.

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South Africa’s big-wave surfing champion Grant “Twiggy” Baker’s story of his becoming legendary at Dungeons. He’s earned himself a full-time sponsorship at Billabong and has focused on succeeding in the surf industry along with winning numerous titles including the XXL Ride of the Year. This piece includes sidebar “In the Manner of Whales,” about “Apenea” freediving classes with Cape Town’s Hanli Prinsloo to prepare for big-wave hold-downs.

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Taj Burrow on transitioning from the professional tour to the real world, dealing with inevitable regression as a middle-aged surfer, and his favorite ’CT competitors.

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East or west, let the conditions call it—heads you bake, tails you freeze.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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