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Larger Than Life
The photographic works of Dr. Don James documented wave riding and ocean exploration from the days of surfers catching 20-pound California spiny lobster in the 1930s to applying decades of learned surfing mastery to backside walls at Pipeline and Waimea in the 1980s. Craig Stecyk crafts us an eloquent introduction to James' contributions to surf culture.
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The Enduring Legend
Early big wave surfing pioneer Peter Cole talks about his experiences growing up in the Santa Monica/Malibu surf scene in the 1940s with friends Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, Buzzy Trent, and Bob Simmons. Gaining some big wave experience at Steamer Lane while attending Stanford, Peter transferred his acquired skills to riding big Sunset and Waimea during the 1960s.
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Curtain Call
Junior Moepono visually explains how an oversized torso can be redeemed as valuable currency during an absurdly powerful bottom turn.
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The Best I Ever Saw: Shaun Claffey
The Best I Ever Saw: Looking through a copy of "Photo: Grannis," the author sees a photo of his favorite surfer: a classic black-and-white photo captioned "unidentified." With the mystery solved, Schurman recollects Shaun's classic maneuvers and impressions he made when he was just a grom at local Santa Barbara breaks throughout the '60s.Blank Expression: A confined, lonesome, dirty job: "Behold the humble sander." Take a peak at one of San Diego's most famous surfboard sanders—Kenny Mann.
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The Slender Man
A small scratch into nonagenarian Dick Metz’s large surfing legacy.
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Time For Change
Kelly Slater's surfboards have always been a little different. From the utlra-narrow glass slipper shortboard designs of his youth to now, wider and fuller (often quad fin) very short boards, Slater's one of the few pros who isn't afraid to tinker with design. Don't be too quick to suggest that Kelly can ride anything and hence his theories don't apply to you. Here, he explains what his vision of the modern surfboard looks like and what that means to you.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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