Episode 0
Father Serra at El Rincon
Stephen Cline translates an 18th century letter written by Junipero Serra. The letter was intended for Father Pedro Font and greatly mimics its period language. The letter describes an adventure traveling up the coast and passing an Indian village at Rincon, where he witnesses a skilled canoesman race the entire length of a sizable point peeler.
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Ep. 0
Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.