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Portfolio: Peter Cole's Zen-like words mirror his photographic enlightenment.
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Ep. 11
The waterman on “designing danger” as a Hollywood stuntman, eschewing labels, training for wipeouts, the aloha spirit, the visceral connection between fear and enlightenment, and his family’s Westside legacy.
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Twenty-five pictures from the acclaimed Australian surf journalist's portfolio, John Witzig, as well as some early writing excerpts. Photos include shots from New South Whales, Hawaii, and California as well as coverage starting from the 1960's of legendary surfers.
Things were a lot different when Billy Meng started surfing in 1943. He paid $10 for his first surfboard: a Bob Simmons surfboard. Meng lived, worked, and surfed with all the early riders along the Southern California coast and Hawaii. Billy now lives in Santa Barbara's backcountry, still repairing fishing nets, after retiring a veteran commercial fisherman.
Created from a bundle of informal material with a letter and snapshots of Tabuaeran Island's uninhabited surf breaks, submitted by Chuck Corbett.
A border run from South Africa to Mozambique for warm but fickle tuck-and-run sand points.